Leopard Gecko Care Guide: Setup, Feeding, and What to Avoid
Leopard geckos have a reputation as the perfect beginner reptile, and it's largely deserved. They are gentle, they don't require complex humidity management, and they are forgiving of keeper mistakes in ways that more sensitive species are not. But beginner-friendly does not mean zero requirements. Get these basics right from the start.
The Enclosure
An adult leopard gecko needs a minimum 20-gallon enclosure, though 40 gallons is better and the only additional cost is upfront. Leopard geckos are terrestrial — they do not climb — so floor space matters more than height. A 40-gallon long provides enough floor space for a proper thermal gradient, multiple hides, and room to move without the gecko feeling exposed.
Glass tanks work well. Plastic tubs work well. The key is front-opening access, which is less stressful for the gecko than a hand coming in from above (the natural approach of a predator).
Heating
Leopard geckos are nocturnal and do not bask in the way a bearded dragon does. They are heated from the ground up, not from overhead. The primary heat source is an under-tank heating pad, connected to a thermostat, maintaining a warm surface of 88 to 92 degrees Fahrenheit on the warm end. The cool end should be 70 to 75 degrees.
The thermostat is not optional. An unregulated heat pad can exceed 110 degrees and cause thermal burns. A thermostat maintains the set temperature regardless of ambient room conditions.
Hides: At Least Three
Leopard geckos need a minimum of three hides: one on the warm end, one on the cool end, and one humid hide in the middle. The humid hide — a plastic container with a hole cut in the lid, filled with damp sphagnum moss or paper towel — is essential for shedding. Without it, retained shed on the toes can constrict circulation and cause toe loss.
Each hide should be snug enough that the gecko can touch all sides when inside. Geckos feel secure when enclosed, not exposed.
Feeding
Leopard geckos eat live insects. Crickets and mealworms are the most common staples. Dubia roaches are nutritionally superior and easier to manage. All feeders should be gutloaded — fed a nutritious diet for 24 to 48 hours before being offered — and dusted with calcium with D3 at every feeding for juveniles and every other feeding for adults.
Feed juveniles daily, adults every other day. Remove uneaten crickets after an hour to prevent them from stressing or injuring the gecko.
Sources
- VCA Animal Hospitals — Leopard Geckos — Housing, heating, feeding, and health care standards
- Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) — Husbandry standards and thermostat requirements for captive geckos
- Merck Veterinary Manual — Husbandry of Reptiles — Thermal gradient requirements and retained shed management
Products That Help
Our Reptile Under-Tank Heat Pad includes a built-in temperature controller and is sized for standard 20 to 40 gallon enclosures. Browse it alongside hides, thermometers, and climbing structures in our Reptiles collection.
For thermostats, calcium supplements, and gutload food, search leopard gecko setup on Amazon.
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